George Clark Letters (9)

Zanzibar, June 23/76

My Dear Father

After I had despatched my last to you on a Saturday night by soldiers walking to ?Ravga? and thence sailing across to Zanz’, the following morning Sunday after breakfast, feeling not very brisk, I stayed in the house instead of going to church, Robertson going, and about 10am I began to feel chilly, with the thermometer at 830 and getting more and more shaky, went out and got a dose of camphor. At 10.30 the shaking left and an intense heat commenced, so I thought, I am in for the fever, so off I went and laid down, and covered myself up with blankets. My legs, back, arms and head began to ache most dreadfully. At 1.0pm Robertson returned, and I sent him for Mr Price, the Supt of the Mission, who came at once and said I was in for it. So he gave me 2oz of Caster Oil, and then 1_oz to open the bowels, and put vinegar cloths on my head, and darkened the room.

The next day I began to perspire and wet everything through. Then I had 2 or 3 doses, 8 or 10 grains each of quinine, and after 3 or 4 days could just totter about. Then ulcers made their appearance on my legs and feet, so that I could not put them to the ground, and consequently, I was as weak as water.

The Sultan’s yacht “Star” put in again at Mombasa, her boilers having given way, and they sent word for a Steamer to be sent to tow her to Zanz’. I now give you a copy of my journal.

June 3rd. – The Sultang arrived to tow the “Star” and word came to say she would sail at 5pm. So being anxious to get back in order to meet the Expedition Party, I set to as well as I was able and packed up my boxes, cut down a pair of boots to squeeze my poor feet into, and got all my traps on board at 3pm, taking food for 2 days, the expected duration of the voyage. 7pm came. No steam up, nor Captain on board. 7.30, Captain came an original Arab, blind in one eye. “Well, Captain, when are you going to start?” “”Kasho Inshallah” “If God will, tomorrow”. Well, where was I to sleep? He opened the Sultan’s Saloon, and gave me the use of it. Nicely furnished, splendid couch etc. so I was all right so far. Ordered my boys to “Chukooli tiarre”, make food ready and had a hearty tea. Then went on deck and enjoyed the beautiful moonlight in the harbour. Had a glass of whisky and a cigar and turned in.

June 4. – Crew began at 5am to get out hawser to “Star.” At 10.30 just as a boat for Church was leaving Mombasa, we started, and got through reefs safely. Find water unfit for drinking and very little of it, and some 50 Arab and Banzas passengers on board. Anchored at sunset 6pm. Here it is pitch dark in 15 minutes after sun goes down, and a very dangerous coast. June 5. – Anniversary of wedding day. Anxious thoughts of home, not having heard from there since March 30. Bread all gone. Must turn to rice, I suppose, as I have some with me, luckily. Ship going very slowly. Strong current and SW monsoon against us. Only 27 miles in 24 hours. Water all gone, provisions ditto. Hunted round for food, saw a goat, gave 1_ dollars for it, fowls 3 for 1s/0d. Passed I of Wanein at 3pm. Scenery very beautiful. Thousands of cocoa-nut trees and mangoes for miles and miles. 6pm anchored for night.

June 6 – At 6am started picking up hawsers and at 9 on our way again, running very close to shore. Scenery enchanting, lofty mountains and undulating shore wooded down to water edge. Killed goat, at 2pm, had a hearty meal. 16 hours since last meal. At 3pm entered Tanga Bay and dropped anchor to tranship coal from Star to Sultang, all ours being gone, and to get in water and food, we not having any water for a day. Went ashore and seeing lots of pigeons, got my gun out and had some sport. There are plenty of doves, hawks, cheetah and hippos here. Was rather wary when I pushed through the jungle. The natives bolted at sight of white men. Got on board at 6pm, very hungry, but neither fire wood or water, so had to drink cocoa-nut milk and chew the nut to stay the stomach. Catching fish in the evening. Tanga Bay one of the most romantic places. Charming scenery, splendid by moonlight.

June 7. Breakfast at 10.0am. Pigeons very good, and was quite ready, having been 20 hours without food. I am getting initiated into African manners and customs, certainly, though to be nearly a day without food is trying, particularly to a man just getting out of fever. This delay, too, is very vexing, as they have coal and water on board, but these Arabs go on shore, pick up a woman or two, and don’t care to stir very quickly. The only advantage to gain is the sight of so much of the coast of E Africa and which is well worth travelling 7.000 to see. It is a land of plenty. Pineapples 3 pice each. Cocoa nuts 130 for a shilling. Caught some nice fish at night. Row on shore at night. Sailors drinking tembe and fighting, one not coming on board till 1.0am. Very noisy. Surang tied him up. Sailor took every rag off him while the Surang went into him with the rope and until he began to make a noise again, and then they put him down the hold and put on the hatches. Most likely when he gets to Zanz he will be rewarded with an iron collar round his neck, and shackles round his legs.

June 8. - Started at 6am. Passed through some dreadfully dangerous places. Sand banks, reefs, surf, breakers in every direction. The pilot steering by guess, and going full speed , for if anything happened, these fellows are like fish in the water, and if they escape the sharks will get to land right enough. Passed some high mountains, some 4.500 feet high. Anchored at 6pm. Night stormy and dark. Passed an uncomfortable night, not having had clothes off for 6 days. Longing for bath and change of clothes.

June 9th - Weighed anchor at 5am. Sighted Zanzibar at 7.30am and anchored in harbour at 5.30, heartily glad to get in. Lt. Smith came alongside in our launch, so got in her an arrived at our house, which is the same Livingstone occupied at 8.30. Met 3 more of our party. Had a good wash and dined, and then a good chat over brandy and water and cigars. Getting very tired at 11. went off to bed, my feet hurting dreadfully.

June 10th. - Sent for Doctor to see if he considers me fit to go up the Wami. Can hardly stand.

June 11th. – Doctor advised me not to go. Orders 3 weeks rest, completely, and sends medicine.

June 12th. - Lt. Smith sets off for Wami, taking Mackay with him who has been in Germany studying Mechanical engineering. Since explorers left, one party down with fever. Gave him medicine, and today he seems better, just a week down. On the 21st Mackay returned in a sorry plight, with all their sextants, horizons, aneroids, compasses, binoculars, charts, in fact every instrument spoiled. The launch has been swamped in the surf. Everything was hours under the salt water. The mud had got in aneroids, and the index and horizon glasses of the sextants were spoiled, and to cap all Lt. Smith had had 3 attacks of fever, and was lying helpless in a Chief’s hut at Sandami. I at once sent off a party in the “Highland Lassie”, which just arrived the day before from England, with our ammunition, to bring him across, and they have just returned. I am quite wild about the instruments, but luckily none of mine were with them, and I am going to take great care of them, as you may think what folly it was of a leader going on a preliminary tour to take 4 aneroids, 2 sextants, 2 prisc. compasses etc. etc. There is not less than £150 to £200 gone, and what is worse, we cannot replace them.

June 27th. - The mail arrived last night, and right glad I was to receive your letter, and to hear you are all well. You know what Solomon says about “Good news from a far country”, and I have felt more satisfied since hearing from you and knowing how you are going on. This letter is the last you may get for some time, as I have made up a party to go up the Kingani River, towards Uganda, and we start at the month end. So that for some time now it is improbable that facilities will be so that letters can be depended on at all arriving to me or to you, as it will quite depend on the Arab traders who go to the interior with caravans for ivory and slaves, and who will have to be our letter carriers to and from the coast. If you can get hold of Stanley’s book “How I found Livingstone”, you will get a very good idea of the place where I am going to settle if possible. It is called Mpawpwa, and the C M S have been led to choose it from Cameron’s recommendation, and they sent me this account of it by this mail.

Our party up the Kingani will consist of Lieut. Smith, Mackay who looks after the engines, O’Neill, an architect, (a good hearty Irishman, who has taken a like to me, I think because I looked after him during his fever, and who has determined to go with me and stay until the rest of the caravan get up to us, which will be for some time). Homewood, our Vice Consul, who wants to accompany us, and will be useful as an Interpreter, and is also fond of Hippo shooting and Alligator hunting of which there is plenty up the Kingani, and myself. All the arms and ammunition have arrived now, so that we are in a big bustle and stirabout, some working at the launch, some looking after the tools, others after provisions and firearms.

I have been casting balls for my rifle, and looking carefully over my arms and instruments, so that we are all busy. The remainder of the party for Nyanza and Tanganika have arrived, a parson, Doctor and farmer. The farmer does not look at all likely to stand any work in the marching line. He is quite bowed and round shouldered, and a braw Scotchman, so that our party consists of 3 English, 4 Scotch, and 1 Irishman. I have nothing more to say, as I am run dry, only that I have torn half your letter up, not seeing that envelopes were scarce in England, and to say that I heard there is going to be a reduction in the rate of posting here, and that you can get two sheets of thin paper out for the same money. I would like to hear from you every month, as it is the only pleasure I have to look forward to, and if you do not receive my letters regularly you will remember that Africa is not England or Zanzibar, and the Postman is an unknown personage here even. Dr Robb of the Indian Navy acts as Postmaster, and we send our boys there for letters. Now I hope and trust God our Father will bless you and keep you all in health and strength, and in the knowledge of His love. Remember me to Uncle James, William and Mary, Dan etc. etc. I am looking forward already to the time when I shall see you all in Old England again if God will, and with love to you

I remain, Dear Father

Your affectionate and loving son

George J Clark

P.S. We have had word that Stanley has done most of his work exploring westward of Nyanza, down to Ianganyka, and will probably be on his way to the Coast shortly, so that I shall probably have him called at Mpwapwa and leaving his card.