Mpwapwa, Sept. 2.1876
My Dear Father
I am heartily thankful to say I have got my destination after marching 260 miles, though at present I am only just recovering from the effects of the exposure to the wetting I received in bed in the tent, many times both blankets being wet through and through, and at times the tent being wet through with rain which fell during the march, and we had to sit within its dripping walls, on the wet ground in wet clothes very often. Well, I am heartily thankful I am not worse. I will just give you a brief outline of our marching etc. though reference to a map will be no use to you as we struck out a new route entirely.
To begin, July 15, left Bagamoya at 6.45 and soon began to experience African travelling difficulties. Several places water rushing along thigh deep for 100 yards or so, through which we had to plunge, then black greasy mud quite semi-fluid which came over our boot tops, then into the Kingani valley. We ferried across Kingani in a canoe. Then came a 10 miles of hop, skip and jump from one bit of green spot in the mud and water on to another. Then rain came on and we were wet from head to foot and through to skin. Having marched some 18 miles, we came to Kikoka, one house where all caravans stop. Here we got under an outhouse to shelter from the rain, and see what would turn up in the shape of our Pagazzi with edibles and clothes, but none coming. I order a Kuku and wali from man of house, that is, chicken and tea, and while our clothes were drying on our backs, the chicken and rice were cooking and a kitanda being brought out for us to sit on, we, e.g. O’Neill and I out with our knives and made a dinner. Then we kicked our heels all afternoon wondering what had got the men, who had resolved to have another day at Bagamoya before starting. Lieut. Smith sent on a man specially with a tin of cocoa and milk, and some preserved meat, so we had a fire made and a sousing hot cup of cocoa which warmed us up as we sorely needed, but no clothes or blankets came and we passed a miserable night. O’N had cramps and I sat and shivered and made cups of cocoa all night.
Next day tent and things came and the men dropped in by 2 & 3.
On the 17th we were waiting for remainder of goods and Pagazzi who were 2 days marching what we did in 5 hours.
On the 18th left Kikoka at 8.30 with our caravan of 51 persons all told, and at 12 noon pitched camp in jungle at a place called Simbo or water. The nights were bitter cold. I had on pyjama lamby suit and 2 blankets, and still felt cold.
On 19th up at 5am, and off at 6. Marched to Rosaka, breakfasted at 12. On 20th left Rosaka at 7am and after a tiring march at 2pm camped in jungle.
On 21st marched at 6am and had company of some 300 of a caravan going to Ungamzemba for ivory. We passed the dead body of a man who had evidently not been long dead. The small-pox was bad among the Wamzamweyi Pagazzi, and the poor fellows march on till done up, then turn aside into the grass to die. I may say here we passed many bodies every day after this, and in some places the stench was dreadful. At 10.30 we arrived at Kirago, a village.
On 22nd marched at 6.45 and at 10.30 at Mayizi.
The 23rd was Sunday. We ordered goats to be killed for men to mark the day. 2 or 3 men were ill. No march on Sunday.
On 24th five men were too ill to go on. There was no march, so we went hunting. We went some 24 miles around country, and saw herds of gazelle and antelope. Came on a lion track. He has killed a deer and dragged it for a great distance.
On 25th, left at 7am and reach Ponge at 11.20. It rained all the way, and at night rain came through our wretched tent, dripping on to us in bed, so that in the morning we were wet through.
On 26th we left Ponge at 6.40, and arrived at Funi at 12.30. Here our Captain Mahomet had a bad attack of fever, just after we arrived.
On 27th no march. Men ill of fever and feeling chilly myself. On 28th self down in fever. 29th Do 30th Sunday, still in fever, and O’Neill likewise. 31st very weak, but thinking place very unhealthy, ordered a march. After 1_ hours, feeling done up, we camped in a village Zuadumera. O’Neill down again in afternoon.
On Aug 1st marched at 6.15 and at 11.20 reached Amweragoo, and breakfasted at 1.30.
On 2nd left at 6.30. At 9.30 arrived at village Wami, close to that river. On 3rd left at 6.15. At 9.15 arrived at Mwingwa. On 4th left at 6.20 and marched till 12, then rested for a short time. Had a pint jug of water with oatmeal stirred in for refreshment, then marched on till 2.15, when we reached small village. The people were frightened at us.
On 5th, left at 6.15 and crossed river Wami by a bridge calculated to give anyone a sensation, being a few thin saplings lashed together and fastened to either bank of the river by creepers. The bridge bent some 10 feet touching the water, and being a rapid river 50 feet wide, the bridge looked very shaky, but all got over safely. Resuming march we went on rapidly till 3.5 reaching a village near the Ugura hills, having walked some 30 miles.
On 6th, Sunday, we kept in all day, resting the feet. On 7th, left at 7am and marched till 9am when we made camp on the hillside. We passed Arab camp, 2 brothers of them dead of small pox, and 1 dying. In the afternoon the suira or concubine of one came to us with her master’s things, for us to make an inventory of them, and state what we knew of her master’s death, so that she could return to Zanzibar, take the letter to Dr Kirk our Consul General, and get her liberty according to the law, and his property.
On 8th, left at 7 and arrived at Mkoudi at 11. wet through. Raining all the way. On 9th, men ill, no march. Made sketches, and dried all bedding. On 10th, left at 8.15. Forded river, up to knees for some 400 yards, then over hills. The rain come on heavily so we made camp at 12.15 near a stream, and heard from coast bound caravan that Masai were within 2 marches of us ahead and had killed 6 of their men. So cleaned up guns and revolvers. No rest at night. Ants biting vigourously and hyena howling near the camp, and dead body about.
On 11th left at 6.30 and at 11 arrived at Magobika. Beautiful scenery.
On 12th woke at 4am by hearing cries of a baby, and found that a poor woman, wife of a medicine man going up country and travelling with us for protection, had been delivered of a son. The father said the boy should be called Musunga, e.g. white man, being born 2 yards off our tent.
On 13th, Sunday, Mahomet came at 8. to say baby had died in night. The poor woman groaning badly, and she died at 10. Brought on prematurely, I think, by the long march we had made. At 11. fever had hold of me. Shivers and aches dreadfully. In evening I had sweated it out, and was lying awake when at midnight a dreadful blaze flared up, and a roar of fire sounded on my startled ears. I jumped up and so did O’Neill, and bursting upon our tent, found all ablaze. The fires the men lay down near their grass huts had set one on fire, and being like tinder all was ablaze at once over the men’s heads. Our tent was smoking but it was pulled down instanter, and seeing the worst over, and the men had got the mastery, I pulled my blanket round me and went to sleep under the clear sky.
On 14th we left at 6.30, but met so many large caravans laden with ivory, some 2000 altogether, and being weak and ill halted at 9.30 and made camp. Here O’Neill was down in fever, and in evening I had a bad attack of ague.
On 15th we were up early and marched 3 hours and then fever coming on had to make camp. O’Neill bad at night. On 16th, O’Neill and I could hardly dress in morning, but we marched at 7.30 and halted at 9.45 as we couldn’t go on, and our men were afraid to go on because of the Masai who were reported very near to us, so we walked up the hill to the village of Bugasi and made camp. O’Neill going to bed directly.
On 17th we were up at 7am and had just had breakfast when Mahomet came in the tent shouting “Oh Bana, Bana Masai here, make haste.” So thinking they were on us, I snatched up gun and revolver and bolted out, but seeing nothing, Mahomet said they were coming to back Bugasi, so all our things were carried inside bounds of village, powder, and ball served out to our men, and then I went and sat with O’Neill on a tree, commanding a good view, but 2 or 3 hours
On 19th left at 6.30 and arrived at Kitanga at 10. A great many caravans were waiting here for more, as we had to go through the Masai country for next 2 days. Concerned about O’Neill. In a very low delirious way.
On 20th, Sunday, another large caravan arrived. There must have been 1500 men camped here. Stayed in tent all day with O’Neill. On 21st O’Neill too bad to be moved. Caravans stopped.
On 22nd at 7.30 got O’Neill slung in blankets and off we started for the Masai route, and a wild one it was. Rugged rocks and stern bleak scenery. At 10.30 got up to other caravans bivoucked for food, so we halted and had breakfast. At 1.pm we resumed the march and a desperate one it was. 3 of the Pagazzi turned into the jungle to die, and I was parched for want of water. On we struggled through all the heat, and at 4.30 my feet were so sore I had to get on a donkey. We had got to a plain then, over which the Emu, Zebra, Antelope etc. were browsing, but on we went. The sun went down and at 6.45 we got to a few trees. Tent was hastily thrown up. I had a cup of tea and went to sleep. The men laid out on ground, too tired to make any shelter for themselves.
On 23rd we were up at 5.30. Got cup of cocoa and off again. At 10.30 we halted for food, and at 12 marched on again. At 3.30 we arrived at Tobogo.
On 24th we left Tobogo at 6.30. We had to mount ?punda? first thing. Got on very well for a while, but the sun came out hot, and the road led up a steep mountain side and the way being only wide enough for a man between the trees, so that I was soon tired of dodging my head and legs. Then about 1pm we came on a sandy way some 60 feet wide, and what with the vertical sun blazing on head and reflected heat from sand, I was soon in high fever. My whole body was racked with aches and pains and the motion of the donkey was past enduring. My tongue clave to the roof of my mouth and my eyes seemed burning. I fell off the donkey and threw myself under a tree and went to sleep, not minding if the men went on or not, but my boy James kept with me and another, and after a bit got me on a donkey again. After that all I remember is being held on a donkey, sometimes falling off, and this agony lasted until near sunset, when coming to a large calabash tree under which some of our men were resting, I threw myself flat on the ground, ordered tent up and went to sleep. Was wakened by men to say that tent was ready and helped in, threw myself on Katanda, had a cup of tea and spent a wretched night trying to rest my weary aching bones.
25th, Mahoumet came first thing in morning to say Mpwapwa was only half a mile off, and brought a bowl of milk, which I drank eagerly. The Sultan sent it. After which O’Neill and I supported by men crawled to the village, and since then we have been in a miserable condition, but getting better and stronger. The air here is bracing, and we have got a native house for the present. Glad to get out of our miserable tent. Have felt great exhaustion, and there is no choice here between rice boiled and millet to tempt a sick man’s appetite, only we get milk. I get a basin of it morning and night. Today for dinner we had boiled beans (only) and millet bread, not much to tempt a sick man with. Still I must trust and hope that when I get my house built I will be better able to look after things. Now, dear father, the above is a brief extract from my journal, of which I may send you a complete copy when I have time. I trust you will not fail to write me and send me a newspaper to let me know what is going on in civilized life. Address them to Zanzibar as before. I hope and trust God will watch over and keep you all from all evil and harm. This is going down by a caravan to the coast, so I must now conclude, my eyes being weak likewise from fever.
With love to all friends
I remain, dear father
Your loving son
George J Clark
Editor's Note: this is the last letter
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