George Clark Letters (10)

Bagamoyo, June 13/76

My Dear Father

I write you a few lines to let you know I am now on the threshold of Africa, having arrived here on the 7th. I went to the French Mission here directly I landed and found the Jesuit Fathers in a most magnificent place, a splendid mansion to live in, surrounded with beautiful gardens, and an extensive establishment of chapel, school, workshops etc. etc. The Father Superior took me round and showed the whole place and then took me in to Dejeuner, where I met the Padre all French, and most kind amiable men they are. They pressed me to dine with them at 7 in the evening and so I went down to Bagamoya and took a horse for self and O’Neill who accompanied me. At 5pm called on the Sultan and had a long talk. He is a fine man, and was of course, surrounded by his Chiefs and Soldiers. Coffee and Sherbut were brought in etc. At 7 went to Mission and enjoyed a splendid dinner, every delicacy from Europe and Bourbon with choice wines. The good tables the Padres keep is astonishing and is the only good time they seem to enjoy, as 2 or 3 of them are always down with fever. I had a touch of sun in spite of my big umbrella, and the Padre mixed me a dose and insisted on me stopping the night there.

Sunday I spent with them all day and passed the night again there. The only thing I did not like was having to keep the window shutters fast so that no cheetah might wake me up at night unceremoniously. Monday afternoon I managed to get away from their hospitality and shall always retain a kindly memory of the good bothers at Bagamoyo.

This week has been a busy one. Much talk and shewing of cloths to Pagazzi, who have to take our goods on their heads for hundreds of miles. The Pagazzi have engaged for goods worth 11 dollars and a flint lock gun worth 3_ dollars, to carry our loads 800 miles, and belong to the Wasacoms near the Victoria Nyanza. Tomorrow, God willing, we hope to leave civilization behind us, and pitch our tent by the Kingani River. So if you have Stanley’s book you will be able to follow me on the road, though we hope to reach our 1st stage, Mpwapwa, in 30 days march. You will see Mpwapwa on the map accompanying his work, near to Usazura Mountains. This is a busy place. All the caravans leave here for the interior, and there are some 2000 Pagazzi arrived here lately, all of them giving much amusement by the several characteristics of each tribe. We have Wanzamwezi, who have hardly the fig leave covering, and the hair of their head done up like a parsnip, but all splendid men in size, some quite 6.6 and well made. Not at all like the Nig ger seen in England, but fine, active, sharp looking men, armed with bow and arrow and assegei, and a flint lock gun.

I must now bid you a good night, as I have to be up in time tomorrow morning to start off before the sun is up, and get over 10 miles before the heat comes on. I have a bugle and am learning to play the assembly so as to gather the men together at a moment’s notice. I do not know when my letters or your letters will arrive at their destinations now, so we must have patience. This is the last night I expect to sleep under a house roof. Tomorrow I suppose I will be under canvas. I trust you are all in health and strength, and that the weather suits you, though it is hot enough here considering it is Winter 930 in the shade. Give my love to all, and believe me to be,

Your affection and loving son

George J Clark

P.S. I had a visit from the Sultan and his retinue this afternoon, and had a “big talk” as they call it, giving him all particulars as to destination etc. He stayed for an hour and a half or so. The Father Superior of F Mission also called. I have to go in to quinine morning and night, and will have to keep it on while in the Kingani valley. Much Malaria arises and causes fever and dysentery. Once more, good night and God Bless you my dear father.